BurgerQuest: Honest Burger Soho

On a never-ending (and incredibly tasty) quest for the best burgers in Britain, Honest Burger was inevitably going to be a stop. But when they were only down in Brixton serving up burgers in a seemingly perpetually crowded shop, I had a little hope of trying them out. Luckily, the new Soho branch is tucked away off Dean St and hasn’t yet been noticed by the vast crowds who typically roam those streets in search of food.

After a morning of intense training in Regent’s Park followed by some highly entertaining shopping in the local charity shops, I popped into Honest Burger for a well deserved bite. I had the intention of trying out the namesake burger (bacon, cheese, and onions on an all-beef patty) but the cute waitress seduced me away with the special. This decadent dish was a black pudding and beef patty with a smoky brown sauce and a sweet apple tempura (which I initially thought was an onion ring!) served with HB’s house chips.

The burger was good with rich meaty flavours from the beef boosted by the black pudding. The black pudding supported the meat rather than hiding it but I’ll have to try a standard beef burger there to really talk about the meat itself. Needless to say, it was a juicy tasty patty that I thoroughly enjoyed. The apple tempura was a new element for me and the sweetness of the apple helped balance out the richness of the patty. I’m not sure what exactly the sauce was, but it helped keep the patty moist and tied everything together.

The bun was a win with the soft bread absorbing the sauce and juices although it did fall apart in the last few bites causing a small mess. Or maybe that was just me…I never seem to be able to eat without getting my hands a little dirty.

I washed it all down with a delicious Samuel Smith Pale Ale served in massive bottles. I’ve never see Samuel Smith before (being much more familiar with Sam Adams) but a good brew for sure.

Last, and definitely not least, were the chips. Wow…just wow. These are by far the best chips I’ve ever tried. Not just in Britain…I mean ever! And I’ve gone through Hawksmoor’s beef dripping chips, Heston’s triple cooked chips, and made dozens of variations on my own (what can I say…I love chips!). But after just one, you know why HB insists on serving a portion with each burger. Hell, I’d come back here just for the chips!

So I probably should tell you why. These chips are imbued with rosemary. You can see the flecks of rosemary on each crispy wafer and you can smell it wafting out of the kitchen. It’s amazing how good rosemary and potato tastes. The chip itself was crispy on the outside yet fluffy so fluffy inside to a degree that implied double or maybe even triple cooking. The full flavours of the rosemary made my mouth water and they were salted just perfectly. The bottle of ketchup provided was almost an insult to the quality of chip served.

Overall, for £12 for the burger and chips (normal burgers range from £7-9…the special was £12), it’s an excellent value offering. On the burger alone, I’d give it the #3 spot under Patty & Bun and Kimchi Cult, but when judged as a package with chips it’s definitely at the top.

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