Foxlow is the newest offering from the Hawksmoor founders, Will Beckett and Huw Gott, who have decided to take a step back from the popular steak house and work on something more “intimate”. And in Foxlow, they’ve achieved just that.
The menu remains fairly meat heavy with chalkboards of the steak cuts on offer dominating the walls but has diversified with both fish and vegetarian main options making appearances including a range of mixed vegetable salads. Plus, with mains (including steaks) being priced in the £18-25 range, it’s a more affordable dining option while the friendly staff and smaller tables and booths lend to a cosy and relaxed atmosphere. All said, Foxlow looks like another winner for both the dynamic duo and London’s diners.
The bar at Foxlow is well stocked with a wide range of spirits and wines to suit almost any palate and price. Cocktails are limited on the menu, but the bartenders have both the talent and temperament to rise to the challenge of off-menu requests so don’t be shy in asking for what you want.
If you prefer to stay out of the restaurant, there are a few pubs down the street or around the corner at Farringdon station and of course the excellent gin bars @GinJoint_London and @COLD_Bar are not too far away either.
It’s not just steak?
No, but let’s start with that. Steaks do feature prominently as you’ll see the cuts on offer before even sitting down. Options are a bit more limited with the choice being between two sharing cuts (Porterhouse and Prime Rib), a 300g rib eye, 250g rib fillet, and a more unusual 250g Deckle. Ask your waiter for some info on the meats – our guy Ned was absolutely spot on with recommendations and knowledgeable enough to continue a discussion about aging methods as well as exactly where the cuts were on the Ginger Pig Longhorn cattle. Oh yes, all the meat is 35 day dry aged from the Ginger Pig – it’s the good stuff.
Get the Deckle! It’s a fattier cut from the edge of the rib and absolutely delicious. Grilled medium rare, the meat remains tender which the rendered fat provides plenty of flavour. Between the deckle and the rib eye (which was no slouch), the deckle won hands down in our group of four.
We opted for a couple of non-steak mains: the 12 hour beef rib and the 8 hour bacon rib. The beef rib was beautiful both to behold and taste which a smoky dark crust glistening with juices over meat so tender it falls off the bone. It’s fatty but not overwhelmingly so and full of beefy goodness – no wonder it was the first to be devoured. The bacon rib, while tasty, was a bit too much – I love bacon but prefer it crispy and with pancakes rather than in a chop form.
Sides were up to scratch with the bacon salt chips and roasted autumnal veggies both getting positive feedback from the group. The chips in particular stay crispy till the very end and our waiter’s recommendation of doubling our initial order to two was a wise one indeed. The broccoli was a tad overcooked but not so much to ruin the taste – still a minute or two less would have kept that crunch in each bite.
Oh, and I’d be remiss in not mentioning the sauces: kimchi ketchup, peppercorn, bbq, bernaise, and a chilli anchovy butter. All were enjoyable but of particular note was the kimchi ketchup with had Katie B crying tears of joy (and debating whether to eat it straight with a spoon) and the bbq which was spicy and moreish and tempted me to drink it straight.
Ahhh and desserts! My favourite was the bourbon caramel sundae which came with a pot of bourbon caramel sauce as well although I could easily eat the bag of salted popcorn as a snack at any time. Katie demolished the PB&J sundae (also top notch) which has bold fruity flavours. The peanutella was good but the brioche bread it was served with ended up too crumbly to be much use – luckily we had no qualms about eating it straight.
Oooh and cocktails?
Settle down, yes there is a cocktail list with some more unique combinations. I opted for the off-menu classic old fashioned (which was excellently crafted) while the girls chose the Miami Dolphin and the St. John. The Dolphin is a sweet fruity concoction served in a martini glass – short but powerful – while the St. John is a sweeter citrus blend.
As I noted above, feel free to order off menu and I spotted a few intriguing bottles behind the bar, in particularly something called “Larceny”. There is nothing for it but to head back and try it out.
Worth the dosh?
Definitely yes. While we went for the soft open (which was damn near flawless) and got 50% off our food, the prices are quite reasonable and I’d be happy to head back there again. Plus it’s close to the office and home so it makes a easy dining option. It’s a great place to catch up with a few friends or take a date to impress without breaking the bank.
Find Foxlow here
69-73 St John Street
020 7014 8070